awesome climber Maureen beck

Definitely don’t mention you are inspired by Maureen Beck. 🙂

She doesn’t want to be considered a good one-armed climber, or a good female climber…she just wants to be a plain good climber.

Click PLAY or watch it on Vimeo.

Her hilarious (inspiring) new documentary is called Stumped.

Maureen reminds me of my years training with Carol (Lefty) Johnston. Always one of the best gymnasts in the club, we regarded her as an awesome gymnast, not an awesome one-armed gymnast.

Coach Kyle – making Gymnastics corrections

Kyle Thalman:

1. Keep it short
2. Use a positive frame of vocabulary
3. Use very descriptive language
4. Use neutral tone / body language
5. Critique technique, not the gymnast
6. Be encouraging about making the fix
7. If there’s no change, try a different correction

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube. (13min)

related – Kyle’s Safe Spotting tutorial video

Sasha DiGiulian on body image / self-esteem

Sasha DiGiulian is a former World Champion Rock Climber.

She’s 5 ft 2 in (157 cm) weighing less than 100 lbs.

Rock Climbing, like Gymnastics, requires relative strength.

Sasha DiGiulian on Accepting Her Body

As a woman in climbing, I occupy two worlds: one defined by strength and grit, the other by beauty and traditional ideas of femininity. It’s something I still struggle with.

Sasha DiGiulan

Elite to NCAA … a catharsis

Will Graves:

… Kondos Field has long felt that college gymnastics offers “psychological rehab” for former elite gymnasts who spent their teenage years buried in the gym for 30-plus hours a week, a physical and mental grind that can leave some broken in body or spirit by the time they reach college.

That’s where UCLA’s Katelyn Ohashi found herself when she arrived on campus in 2015. Once one of the top juniors in the country, Ohashi’s senior elite career was derailed by injuries and struggles with body image that followed her to Los Angeles. …

College gymnastics offers catharsis in wake of Nassar furor