Did you see the IMAX film Everest?
Ed Viesturs, one of the best high altitude climbers (who lived to tell the tale), reveals in his autobiography No Shortcuts to the Top that he “was wasting his time” in off-season conditioning. For years.
No one had ever questioned Ed’s self-designed program.
Finally he got some coaching, a personal fitness trainer completely revising his strength training program. Ed now advocates “functional training”: specificity.
From Ed’s website:
Running: Typically 7-8 miles a day on hilly roads (approximately 1 Hour) – 4 days on, 1 day off.
Weight Training: I try to train with weights two to three times a week. I work all parts of my body and try to focus on my core as well. The exercises I do simulate the movements that I make while climbing, lifting a pack, shoveling snow, and climbing steep and varied terrain. Many exercises are done while balancing on inflated half balls or while standing on one leg. I do a low number of sets with a high number of repetitions keeping the weight moderate for strength and endurance. This upper body work helps me when carrying a pack, shoveling a tent platform, and provides me general strength to make it through a long day in the mountains.
Every athlete needs a coach. Even Tiger Woods. Even Ed Viesturs.
About Ed Viesturs – official website
I highly recommend the book. It’s written for the general public, not the mountaineering elite.
No Shortcuts to the Top: Climbing the World’s 14 Highest Peaks
Gymnastics Coaching.com 